Gazpacho

I found the perfect recipe to capture the flavor and feel of summer before it slips away. Those of you who listen to the Splendid Table on public radio may have already heard David Rosengarten describe an authentic, Andalusian gazpacho. It differs from what Americans typically call "gazpacho" as it is a smooth, pureed soup with the addition of stale bread.

Yesterday I acquired all the vegetables and the bread at the Montavilla Farmer's Market and went to In Good Taste, cooking school/kitchen supply store downtown and splurged on a $21 bottle of sherry vinegar. There was a $60 bottle that the saleswoman said "...you could pour it in a glass and drink...", which I don't doubt, but if I'm going to lay down that kind of money it would for a Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Well, I just made a batch and it is incredible. I didn't use David Rosengarten's recipe (though I did put it in a pitcher as he recommends) but another recipe by Anya von Bremzen which can also be found on the Splendid Table website. Use the juiciest, freshest, vine-ripened tomaotes you can find, as the flavor of this cold soup utterly depends on it.

So go- now, while you can still get some good tomatoes and make this. It looks like a lot of work but it really is just some chopping and pureeing and well worth it:

Classic Andalusian Gazpacho

Adapted from The Greatest Dishes: Around the World in 80 Recipes © 2004 by Anya Von Bremzen. Published by HarperCollins.

Serves 6

A fruity Spanish olive oil, preferably from Andalusia, is important, as is a good sherry vinegar, preferably aged. Both can be found at specialty groceries or mail-ordered (see Resources). If you can spare the time, garnish the gazpacho with tiny bread croutons fried in olive oil.

• Four 1-inch-thick slices day-old coarse country bread from a round loaf, crusts removed, torn into small pieces
  
• 3 pounds ripest, most flavorful tomatoes possible, washed and quartered (do not use Beefsteak tomatoes)
  
• 4 tablespoons good-quality sherry vinegar, preferably aged
  
• 3 medium garlic cloves
  
• Small pinch of cumin seeds or ground cumin
  
• Coarse sea salt
  
• 2 firm medium-sized Kirby (pickling) cucumbers, peeled
  
• 1 medium green bell pepper, cored and seeded
  
• 1 medium red bell pepper, cored and seeded
  
• One quarter of a medium red onion, peeled
  
• 1/2 cup fragrant, fruity extra-virgin Spanish olive oil, preferably from Andalusia
  
• 1/2 cup bottled spring water, or more to taste
  
  Garnish
• 2 to 3 tablespoons each finely diced cucumbers, peeled green apples, slightly
  underripe tomatoes, and green bell peppers
  
• Slivered young basil leaves

1. Place the bread in a large bowl, and squeeze out the seeds and some of the juice from the tomatoes over it. Crumble and massage the bread with your fingers. Add 1 tablespoon of the vinegar and let it soak for 5 to 10 minutes.

2. Using a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic to a paste with the cumin and 1/2 teaspoon of salt.

3. Transfer the bread mixture to a food processor along with the garlic paste, and process until completely smooth. Leave this mixture in the food processor while preparing the next step.

4. Chop the tomatoes, cucumbers, red and green peppers, and onion into medium dice. Place the vegetables in a bowl, stir in three large pinches of salt, and let stand for 15 minutes so that the tomatoes throw off some liquid.

5. Working in three batches, process the vegetable mixture in a food processor until as smooth as possible, adding a third of the olive oil to each batch. (The first batch will be processed with the bread mixture.) Transfer each finished batch to a sieve set over a large bowl.

6. Pass the gazpacho through a sieve, pressing on it with the back of a wooden spoon. Whisk in the remaining 3 tablespoons vinegar and the water. Adjust salt to taste. Chill the gazpacho for at least 3 hours before serving. (If making the gazpacho a day ahead, add the garlic 2 to 3 hours before serving, lest it overwhelm the other flavors.) Serve in glass bowls or wine glasses, with the suggested garnishes.